Ok so TheoryThursday is going to be seriously reduced during the month of November due to Nanowrimo (http://www.nanowrimo.org - for the uninitiated) and the fact that there’s only so many hours in a week! I suspect at absolute most only one level is going to get a post each week. Enjoy!
This week – evaluating soundness.
So there will come a time in every horse-person’s life when you’re riding around and suddenly think “hmmmm, that’s not quite right...” So you get off your horse, but now what?
First, bribe a friend. Get this wonderful person to lead your horse in a straight line at the trot. The leadline should have no pressure on it (giving the horse complete freedom of head and neck). Why the trot? Well because at the trot the horse moves in an even 2-beat rhythm, making it much easier to judge if something’s not right. They also tend to carry their heads very still – making it obvious if that’s not right either!
So your willing friend is trotting your horse in a long straight line so you can observe. But what exactly are you seeing? Well first thing – is the horse’s head bobbing? If so, there’s a problem. Next thing to ascertain – does his head seem to be going up higher than normal when it bobs, or is it pulling down lower than normal. I’ll give you a hint, if you’re new to this, odds are it’s going up. The down is usually a much more subtle movement. If it’s going up, you’re looking at a front leg lameness. If it’s going down, it’s the hind leg.
So every-other-beat the horse’s head shoots up in the air. Something’s wrong in the front. But which leg? Well, just imagine if you were limping. You have a huge blister on the ball of your left foot – when you step on that foot you’re going to step mostly on your toes and for as short a time as possible. This means your head will come UP when the SORE leg hits the ground. And as you limp, so does your horse.
If the problem is in the hind-end, you’ll see the horse’s head bob down lower than normal every-other-beat. The reason for this is he’s using his head and neck as a counter-weight so he doesn’t have to put pressure on the sore leg. So in this case the horse’s head goes DOWN when the SORE leg hits the ground.
Which of course makes the two seem like complete opposites and entirely confusing, but really all you have to remember is that the deviation from normal occurs as a result of the pain. So whichever leg is on the ground when the head is in the wrong position is the one you should be looking at. This is a skill that does take time to develop, but you would like it to be at the point where you can tell even without the head bob which leg has something wrong (ie when they’re just not stretching quite as far with one leg as the other).
Once you know *which* leg is sound is the time to try and figure out what is wrong and what to do about it. But that’s a post for another day!
Read more...
Showing posts with label Care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Care. Show all posts
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Advanced: Nutrients
Alright so it’s been a while since I’ve done a really good advanced level TheoryThursday so I figured I’d do about a month’s worth in one :) Enjoy!
As always note that this is simply an FYI. Your horse’s diet should be discussed with your vet and equine nutritionist – not concocted off the Internet. This is just so you can sound intelligent when you go to talk to the experts!
There are six types of essential nutrients:
Vitamins are organic substances needed in small amounts by the body. There are two types of vitamins: water-soluble (which is carried in water, and tends to exit the body fairly rapidly) and fat-soluble (which is carried in fat and can be stored for when the body needs them).
The fat-solubles are Vitamins A, D, E, and K. This is why it is important to have at least a certain percentage of body mass as fat -- if your horse doesn't have enough fat, she can't utilize these correctly.
Vitamin A:
Is made from carotene which is found in green pasture grasses and good quality hay. Is responsible for night vision, important for reproduction and embryo creation, helps improve the immune system, and keeps eyes/skin/hair/nerves/hooves/etc healthy. Vitamin A deficiency can cause night blindness; toxicity can cause fragile bones or overgrowth of bones and/or pregnancy issues (ie malformed foetus).
Vitamin D:
Found in sunlight or a little bit in sun-cured hay. Helps regulate calcium levels (hence why most calcium supplements include Vitamin D :). Vitamin D deficiency is rarely a concern due to the fact that horses need very little of it but in extreme circumstances can cause rickets (as w/ people, causes bone deformities). Vitamin D toxicity is incredibly rare since the body only makes as much D as it needs; were it to happen it would result in calcification of soft tissues.
Vitamin E:
Found in forage – note that Vitamin E is lost when feed is heated during processing or over time. Older plants have less E than younger ones. It is necessary for fertility, production of red blood cells and ability to carry oxygen in teh blood. Deficiency will result in muscle issues (esp when combined w/ selenium deficiency -- hence why vit E and Selenium supplements are often sold combined). These issues would display as constant shifting of weight or lying down, no ability to keep muscle tone, trembling, etc. Vitamin E toxicity is essentially a non-issue. In people it can cause impared bone calcification, but doesn't seem to happen in horses. Note though that too much selenium (see minerals) which is often combined with the E supplement IS a concern.
Vitamin K:
Found in forage, vitamin K helps with blood clotting. Deficiency is very rare, usually only caused if mouldy hay is fed (as it actively works against vitamin K) and would result in blood not clotting properly. Toxicity is also very rare (the "safe" rate is something like 1000 times the daily recommended intake) although has occasionally be caused by injection resulting in renal/kidney failure.
Ok so those are the ones that can be stored in your horse’s body. The water soluble vitamins include all the B vitamins (cause it’s easier to remember a bunch of Bs then to give them each their own letter!) as well as C. These are usually flushed out of the system through the horse’s urine and so are rarely toxic, but by the same token, deficiencies are noted much more quickly.
Vitamin B6:
Is required to allow the amino acid tryptophan to be used. This is found in most feeds and has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B12:
Is created in the horse’s digestive tract (and requires the mineral Cobalt for this to happen!) B12 is used in the metabolism of faty acids, carbohydrates, and proteins. Also helps prevent anemia. It has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B3 - aka Niacin
Found in forage and produced by the horse's digestive system, Niacin is required for metabolism. It has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B1 - aka Thiamine
Found in cereal grains, Thiamine aids in carbohydrate digestion and is required for appetite. Toxicity is a non issue but deficiency can cause:
- nervous system issues (incl pain, swelling and lethargy)
- loss of appetite
- muscle twitching
- slow heartbeat
- lack of coordination
Note that deficiency is usually not an issue due to it being so available in the horse's diet. However, should the horse eat a large amount of Bracken Fern, it will block the B1 resulting in the deficiency.
Vitamin B2 - aka Riboflavin
Found in leguemes and grass hays; a moderate amount can also be produced in the digestive system. Riboflavin helps make coenzymes which are essential for energy release and the proper functioning of the nervous system. Toxicity is very rare and would cause weight loss. Deficiency is a non-issue.
Vitamin C
Is generally synthesized from glucose in the horse’s intestines. This is an anti-oxidant with no known deficiency or toxicity issues. (Although in people vitamin c deficiency produces scurvy)
Alright – you got all that? You’re half way through now! Hahaha I did warn you it was an intense one :) So we’ve done water, proteins and vitamins. And the vitamins are divided into fat soluble (A, D, E, K) and water soluble (various Bs and C).
And now we’re on to...
Minerals are inorganic substances (as opposed to the organic vitamins we just discussed) that are required in tiny amounts but are absolutely critical for a healthy horse – 90% of the skeleton is made up of minerals. Note that overfeeding minerals is likely to cause more harm than overfeeding vitamins.
There are two types of minerals, macrominerals (aka major minerals) and microminerals (aka trace minerals).
Macrominerals
Microminerals
No less important than macrominerals, but required in tiny amounts.
Note that there are two ratios you must be aware of for minerals:
Carbohydrates are plant starches that your horse uses for energy. They are found in hays, grains and grasses and are the most usual source of energy. Note that excess energy will be stored as fat so be careful to feed the right amount for the amount of work he’s doing!
Fatty acids are used to carry certain vitamins through the bloodstream and are essential for metabolism. They also affect skin and hair condition and the rate of growth of young horses. Fats provide roughly 2.5x the amount of energy as carbs and are an “emergency backup system” for use when your horse’s body is stressed (be it from too much work, illness, or missing his weekly trip to the psychiatrist!) The best source for these are wheat-germ oil (or if you’re on a budget, corn oil :) Note that high-fat feeds tend to spoil quickly so be careful if you choose to feed them.
And now you know far more than you ever wanted to about nutrients :) Congratulations.
Read more...
As always note that this is simply an FYI. Your horse’s diet should be discussed with your vet and equine nutritionist – not concocted off the Internet. This is just so you can sound intelligent when you go to talk to the experts!
There are six types of essential nutrients:
- Water – essential part of every cell
- Protein - building blocks of cells, for growth, repair and maintenance of body
- Vitamins - support vital body functions
- Minerals - build and maintain tissue
- Carbohydrates - used for energy and digestion
- Fatty Acids/Lipids - produce extra energy (backup system for carbs) and used to digest vitamins.
Water
is the most important nutrient in the horse's body. The horse should drink about 12 gallons of water daily -- obviously more in the very hot weather or when in serious work. Water makes up 65% of the horse’s body weight (closer to 80% for foals). Among other things, their bodies use water for:- Digestion: aids swallowing, provides fluid for food to pass along digestive tract, basis for digestive juices.
- Blood: fluid containing blood cells and nutrients, carries waste from tissues
- Lymph: drains tissue and maintain balance of body fluids
- Urine: excrete waste, regulate levels of sodium, potassium and other electrolytes
- Faeces: supply fluid to aid excretion
- Body – regulate body temperature
- Skin – regulate body temperature (ie remove excess heat as sweat)
- Eyes and nostrils: tears and mucus as a lubricant
- Joints: lubricate
- Milk: 91% of milk of lactating mares.
Proteins
are the building blocks of the cells, and as such are particularly critical for young, growing horses. They create new tissue and repair the old. These are found in oilseed (esp soybean oil – which is about 50% protein), oats, barley, corn and alfalfa. Proteins are made up of amino acids, whose job is to translate plant protein (that the horse has just eaten) into animal protein (that his body can use). There are a whole variety of these amino acids (24 actually :) – of which the two most important are lysine and methionine. They are the most important because the horse needs those two to make use of the other ones.Vitamins
Vitamins are organic substances needed in small amounts by the body. There are two types of vitamins: water-soluble (which is carried in water, and tends to exit the body fairly rapidly) and fat-soluble (which is carried in fat and can be stored for when the body needs them).
The fat-solubles are Vitamins A, D, E, and K. This is why it is important to have at least a certain percentage of body mass as fat -- if your horse doesn't have enough fat, she can't utilize these correctly.
Vitamin A:
Is made from carotene which is found in green pasture grasses and good quality hay. Is responsible for night vision, important for reproduction and embryo creation, helps improve the immune system, and keeps eyes/skin/hair/nerves/hooves/etc healthy. Vitamin A deficiency can cause night blindness; toxicity can cause fragile bones or overgrowth of bones and/or pregnancy issues (ie malformed foetus).
Vitamin D:
Found in sunlight or a little bit in sun-cured hay. Helps regulate calcium levels (hence why most calcium supplements include Vitamin D :). Vitamin D deficiency is rarely a concern due to the fact that horses need very little of it but in extreme circumstances can cause rickets (as w/ people, causes bone deformities). Vitamin D toxicity is incredibly rare since the body only makes as much D as it needs; were it to happen it would result in calcification of soft tissues.
Vitamin E:
Found in forage – note that Vitamin E is lost when feed is heated during processing or over time. Older plants have less E than younger ones. It is necessary for fertility, production of red blood cells and ability to carry oxygen in teh blood. Deficiency will result in muscle issues (esp when combined w/ selenium deficiency -- hence why vit E and Selenium supplements are often sold combined). These issues would display as constant shifting of weight or lying down, no ability to keep muscle tone, trembling, etc. Vitamin E toxicity is essentially a non-issue. In people it can cause impared bone calcification, but doesn't seem to happen in horses. Note though that too much selenium (see minerals) which is often combined with the E supplement IS a concern.
Vitamin K:
Found in forage, vitamin K helps with blood clotting. Deficiency is very rare, usually only caused if mouldy hay is fed (as it actively works against vitamin K) and would result in blood not clotting properly. Toxicity is also very rare (the "safe" rate is something like 1000 times the daily recommended intake) although has occasionally be caused by injection resulting in renal/kidney failure.
Ok so those are the ones that can be stored in your horse’s body. The water soluble vitamins include all the B vitamins (cause it’s easier to remember a bunch of Bs then to give them each their own letter!) as well as C. These are usually flushed out of the system through the horse’s urine and so are rarely toxic, but by the same token, deficiencies are noted much more quickly.
Vitamin B6:
Is required to allow the amino acid tryptophan to be used. This is found in most feeds and has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B12:
Is created in the horse’s digestive tract (and requires the mineral Cobalt for this to happen!) B12 is used in the metabolism of faty acids, carbohydrates, and proteins. Also helps prevent anemia. It has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B3 - aka Niacin
Found in forage and produced by the horse's digestive system, Niacin is required for metabolism. It has no known deficiency or toxicity issues.
Vitamin B1 - aka Thiamine
Found in cereal grains, Thiamine aids in carbohydrate digestion and is required for appetite. Toxicity is a non issue but deficiency can cause:
- nervous system issues (incl pain, swelling and lethargy)
- loss of appetite
- muscle twitching
- slow heartbeat
- lack of coordination
Note that deficiency is usually not an issue due to it being so available in the horse's diet. However, should the horse eat a large amount of Bracken Fern, it will block the B1 resulting in the deficiency.
Vitamin B2 - aka Riboflavin
Found in leguemes and grass hays; a moderate amount can also be produced in the digestive system. Riboflavin helps make coenzymes which are essential for energy release and the proper functioning of the nervous system. Toxicity is very rare and would cause weight loss. Deficiency is a non-issue.
Vitamin C
Is generally synthesized from glucose in the horse’s intestines. This is an anti-oxidant with no known deficiency or toxicity issues. (Although in people vitamin c deficiency produces scurvy)
Alright – you got all that? You’re half way through now! Hahaha I did warn you it was an intense one :) So we’ve done water, proteins and vitamins. And the vitamins are divided into fat soluble (A, D, E, K) and water soluble (various Bs and C).
And now we’re on to...
Minerals
Minerals are inorganic substances (as opposed to the organic vitamins we just discussed) that are required in tiny amounts but are absolutely critical for a healthy horse – 90% of the skeleton is made up of minerals. Note that overfeeding minerals is likely to cause more harm than overfeeding vitamins.
There are two types of minerals, macrominerals (aka major minerals) and microminerals (aka trace minerals).
Macrominerals
- Potassium maintains PH and fluid levels in the cells. This is used every time your horse uses a muscle. Found in forage. May need to be supplemented (ie electrolytes) in a horse who is exercising heavily for a long period of time without eating (esp endurance horses) in hot humid weather
- Chlorine (salt ) is important for cell function. Found in salt.
- Sodium (salt) similar to potassium but arguably even more important. Hard to find in normal diet but a primary component of salt which is why it is recommended to have free choice salt always available (particularly loose salt as some have trouble with the blocks). If your horse is randomly licking odd things (esp your sweaty hands!) the odds are good he needs more loose salt.
- Calcium is important for bone development and maintenance. 90% of calcium in the body is found in the bones. Comes from legumes. Amount must be carefully balanced with phosphorus.
- Phosphorus is also important in bone formation and maintenance as well as creating cell energy (ADP/ATP). 80% of phosphorus in the body is found in the bones. Comes from plants. Amount must be carefully balanced with calcium.
- Magnesium is important in skeletal development, muscles, and nervous tissue. Lots of "de-stress" horse products use magnesium to help chill out the horse as magnesium deficiency can lead to being very tense and high strung. Found in most feeds, but often not sufficient to meet horse's daily needs.
- Sulfur is involved in just about every substance in your horse's body. Critical component of key amino acids (which make up protein structure) and important to both insulin (sugar regulator) and biotin (hoof growth) as well as many others. Found in forage.
Microminerals
No less important than macrominerals, but required in tiny amounts.
- Iron is important for blood transportation around the body; iron deficiency can result in a weak or anemic horse.
- Zinc is important in bone development, blood clotting, coat quality and reproduction.
- Manganese is important in cartilage and bone development and mineral utilization.
- Copper is important in bone and cartilage development and iron utilization. Molasses is particularly high in bopper.
- Iodine regulates thyroid activity and aids metabolism. Also particularly important for pregnant mares. . Iodine is usually supplemented by feeding iodized salt.
- Cobalt is important for blood cell formation and the synthesis of vitamin B12 (see above :)
- Selenium is important to reproduction, growth, and the immune system. Note that too much selenium can cause all sorts of problems from abdominal pain and lethargy to hair loss, blindness and laminitis.
Note that there are two ratios you must be aware of for minerals:
- Calcium: Phosphorus -- roughly 2:1. Should it drop too low, the horse won't be able to absorb the calcium, resulting in deficiency and weaker bones. Note that hay and grasses are high in calcium, low in phosphorus while grain is high in potassium and low in calcium.
- Zinc: Copper -- this one isn't set because it'll change dramatically from horse to horse, but it seems the higher the ratio, the more likely problems will occur.
Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are plant starches that your horse uses for energy. They are found in hays, grains and grasses and are the most usual source of energy. Note that excess energy will be stored as fat so be careful to feed the right amount for the amount of work he’s doing!
Fatty Acids/Lipids
Fatty acids are used to carry certain vitamins through the bloodstream and are essential for metabolism. They also affect skin and hair condition and the rate of growth of young horses. Fats provide roughly 2.5x the amount of energy as carbs and are an “emergency backup system” for use when your horse’s body is stressed (be it from too much work, illness, or missing his weekly trip to the psychiatrist!) The best source for these are wheat-germ oil (or if you’re on a budget, corn oil :) Note that high-fat feeds tend to spoil quickly so be careful if you choose to feed them.
And now you know far more than you ever wanted to about nutrients :) Congratulations.
Read more...
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Intermediate/Advanced Blankets
So you bought your first horse this spring and had a great season with her. But now it's getting cold :( Time to think about blankets! Why? That's discussed in the beginner section of today's post -- feel free to read it :) In this post, what to know before you buy: size, weight, care, hoods, fit
So you realize you need a blanket and duitifully go to the tack store to purchase one... And are greeted with a whole wall of choices. And absolutely no idea what it is you should be buying. You randomly look at a tag. After cringing at the price you note some other information. Three numbers. No idea what they mean. Great. With Google's help, you end up here :)
I'm not going to discuss brands -- everybody has their own favourites and their own budget. However, there are some things that will be required throughout: size, weight, and care. And for those who *really* want the short version the numbers refer to size, shell and insulation. The end :)
For the long version...:
If your horse is going outside in it, it should be waterproof. Since most waterproof items don't allow sweat to evaporate either, it can lead to overheating which is almost worse than being cold. For this reason you should look for blankets that are both waterproof AND breathable. Harder to find and slightly more expensive, but definitely worth it for your horse's sake. You can always check your horse for overheating by putting a hand between the blanket and the chest or by the girth. If they're overly warm or sweating you've got them over-blanketed. This can happen even when it's cold out -- particularly if it's sunny.
Size
Size is the first number you'll usually see on the tag. It is measured in inches and will range anywhere from about 66" (smaller for foals of course - think baby-clothes) to about 88" (I'm trying to think if I've ever seen a 90" and I don't think I have -- but it doesn't mean they don't exist, it just means I don't work with many HUGE horses :) The usually go up in increments of 2" with always being even numbers, but not always since my ottb is currently wearing a 75" so clearly somebody felt the need to defy the rules *g* Or offer more variety :) Anyways - how do you know what size you'll need?
Now when you're shopping if you're on a half-size go up one. Also, as with people's clothing, different brands and styles fit differently, so while you may technically be a 74, for some brands you may need a 76 or a 72. Well trained sales staff will be able to tell you how the various blankets usually fit.
Weight
Just like you're not going to wear your heavy down-filled parka on a day that's 5deg (ummm that'd be about ..... to our US friends :) it's important that you dress your horse according to the weather as well. Other considerations include activity level, indoor temperature, the length of your horse's hair, and metabolism (a horse that's hard to keep weight on may need a warmer blanket). To this end we have not one but TWO numbers regarding the weight. The second number (after size) you'll usually see on the tag is for the shell (outter layer) and has to do with the weight of the fibers in the fabric. The lower the number, the finer and lighter the fabric (think silk). The higher the number, the coarser and heavier it'll be.
The last number refers to the insulation. Anything below 175 is considered a Light-weight. This could be anything from a rainsheet with no insulation to a stable sheet. A midweight will be in the 175-250 range. A heavyweight is 250+ (up to about 500). Note that realistically the numbers are just guidelines -- anything that's within about 50 of a boundary could switch levels based on the type of fabric used for the shell and the lining. Pretend you have a fleece vest for your "insulation" and you put it over a t-shirt and under a light spring jacket. Now take that same fleece but put it over a sweatshirt and under a heavy leather rain jacket. Technically you've got the same level of insulation, but to a very different result. So you have to consider the overall package not just any one number on its own.
Care
For me, care is once or twice a year making a giant pile of all the blankets and sending them to our wonderful blanket lady who, for a reasonable fee, returns them cleaned and repaired -- complete w/ smilie face stickers indicating all the repairs. However, for those who are a little more ambitious than I...
Most blankets now are made machine washable (yeah!) -- they do tend to be hard on the washers though (and most laundromats will kick you out :) so be forewarned (you might get away with it if you go to a city laundromat where they don't know any better :). They also make a lot of noise since the metal buckles fly around. Generally just follow the instructions -- can't tell you much more than that. Usually wash in warm, rinse in cold. Don't use bleach and don't dry-clean (the chemicals effect the waterproofing and are not particularly good for your horse). The big thing to remember is don't use the dryer as that will undo the waterproofing.
Obviously tears should be stitched, straps must be in good repair, and the inside @ least should be reasonably clean of mud, hair, dirt, etc.
Hoods
Some blankets come with hoods (essentially neck-warmers :) These add time and a bit of a pita to the daily routine, but if your horse has a full-body clip you should seriously consider one (if they have their natural coat on the neck, I don't worry about it). Note that there are some blankets now which do not have hoods but seem to have a little "extra" piece that comes over the withers and just a bit up the neck. These are great in theory. However, in practice I've noticed that since that extra piece doesn't really lie ON the neck so much as over it, there's a tendency for snow and other miserable weather elements to get in there (esp if the horse's head is down) ending with a very wet and very cold horse. Be aware though that's only my personal experience. It's enough that I don't use them any more, but there might be some out there for which that's not an issue.
Fit
Once you've bought your blanket (or blankets as the case usually is) bring them home, groom your horse, and then try them on. It should cover from the withers to the dock (most have little tail flaps now -- great addition!) It should fit reasonably closely -- anything that moves too much, or conversely is too tight, will rub, leaving bare patches on your horse's skin. Check particularly the points of the shoulder and hip as well as by the withers. The blanket should go just past the belly. If it's down near the knees it's way too long and the horse will risk getting tripped up by the straps that attach underneath. Anything that's too big will be subject to twisting and getting tangled. Straps are pretty well always adjustable. They should be loose enough to not be touching the horse (it's not a girth!) but not so loose that they dangle. The chest straps should be snug enough that the blanket is not moving around.
Read more...
So you realize you need a blanket and duitifully go to the tack store to purchase one... And are greeted with a whole wall of choices. And absolutely no idea what it is you should be buying. You randomly look at a tag. After cringing at the price you note some other information. Three numbers. No idea what they mean. Great. With Google's help, you end up here :)
I'm not going to discuss brands -- everybody has their own favourites and their own budget. However, there are some things that will be required throughout: size, weight, and care. And for those who *really* want the short version the numbers refer to size, shell and insulation. The end :)
For the long version...:
If your horse is going outside in it, it should be waterproof. Since most waterproof items don't allow sweat to evaporate either, it can lead to overheating which is almost worse than being cold. For this reason you should look for blankets that are both waterproof AND breathable. Harder to find and slightly more expensive, but definitely worth it for your horse's sake. You can always check your horse for overheating by putting a hand between the blanket and the chest or by the girth. If they're overly warm or sweating you've got them over-blanketed. This can happen even when it's cold out -- particularly if it's sunny.
Size
Size is the first number you'll usually see on the tag. It is measured in inches and will range anywhere from about 66" (smaller for foals of course - think baby-clothes) to about 88" (I'm trying to think if I've ever seen a 90" and I don't think I have -- but it doesn't mean they don't exist, it just means I don't work with many HUGE horses :) The usually go up in increments of 2" with always being even numbers, but not always since my ottb is currently wearing a 75" so clearly somebody felt the need to defy the rules *g* Or offer more variety :) Anyways - how do you know what size you'll need?
- Grab a tape measure and, if you have one, a friend :) Can be done with one person, but much easier with two.
- Make sure horse is standing square on a flat surface.
- Have your friend hold the end of the tape at the point where your horse's neck meets the center of his chest.
- Take the other end of the tape along the side of the horse all the way around to the middle of his hindquarters (will be usually a little less than 1' below where the tail meets the body). Make sure when you're doing this that the tape measure crosses the widest part of the shoulder or your blanket will be too small. Also make sure it's taut (if it's loose your blanket will be too big). Note the measurement. Multiply by 2 and you're good to go.
Now when you're shopping if you're on a half-size go up one. Also, as with people's clothing, different brands and styles fit differently, so while you may technically be a 74, for some brands you may need a 76 or a 72. Well trained sales staff will be able to tell you how the various blankets usually fit.
Weight
Just like you're not going to wear your heavy down-filled parka on a day that's 5deg (ummm that'd be about ..... to our US friends :) it's important that you dress your horse according to the weather as well. Other considerations include activity level, indoor temperature, the length of your horse's hair, and metabolism (a horse that's hard to keep weight on may need a warmer blanket). To this end we have not one but TWO numbers regarding the weight. The second number (after size) you'll usually see on the tag is for the shell (outter layer) and has to do with the weight of the fibers in the fabric. The lower the number, the finer and lighter the fabric (think silk). The higher the number, the coarser and heavier it'll be.
The last number refers to the insulation. Anything below 175 is considered a Light-weight. This could be anything from a rainsheet with no insulation to a stable sheet. A midweight will be in the 175-250 range. A heavyweight is 250+ (up to about 500). Note that realistically the numbers are just guidelines -- anything that's within about 50 of a boundary could switch levels based on the type of fabric used for the shell and the lining. Pretend you have a fleece vest for your "insulation" and you put it over a t-shirt and under a light spring jacket. Now take that same fleece but put it over a sweatshirt and under a heavy leather rain jacket. Technically you've got the same level of insulation, but to a very different result. So you have to consider the overall package not just any one number on its own.
Care
For me, care is once or twice a year making a giant pile of all the blankets and sending them to our wonderful blanket lady who, for a reasonable fee, returns them cleaned and repaired -- complete w/ smilie face stickers indicating all the repairs. However, for those who are a little more ambitious than I...
Most blankets now are made machine washable (yeah!) -- they do tend to be hard on the washers though (and most laundromats will kick you out :) so be forewarned (you might get away with it if you go to a city laundromat where they don't know any better :). They also make a lot of noise since the metal buckles fly around. Generally just follow the instructions -- can't tell you much more than that. Usually wash in warm, rinse in cold. Don't use bleach and don't dry-clean (the chemicals effect the waterproofing and are not particularly good for your horse). The big thing to remember is don't use the dryer as that will undo the waterproofing.
Obviously tears should be stitched, straps must be in good repair, and the inside @ least should be reasonably clean of mud, hair, dirt, etc.
Hoods
Some blankets come with hoods (essentially neck-warmers :) These add time and a bit of a pita to the daily routine, but if your horse has a full-body clip you should seriously consider one (if they have their natural coat on the neck, I don't worry about it). Note that there are some blankets now which do not have hoods but seem to have a little "extra" piece that comes over the withers and just a bit up the neck. These are great in theory. However, in practice I've noticed that since that extra piece doesn't really lie ON the neck so much as over it, there's a tendency for snow and other miserable weather elements to get in there (esp if the horse's head is down) ending with a very wet and very cold horse. Be aware though that's only my personal experience. It's enough that I don't use them any more, but there might be some out there for which that's not an issue.
Fit
Once you've bought your blanket (or blankets as the case usually is) bring them home, groom your horse, and then try them on. It should cover from the withers to the dock (most have little tail flaps now -- great addition!) It should fit reasonably closely -- anything that moves too much, or conversely is too tight, will rub, leaving bare patches on your horse's skin. Check particularly the points of the shoulder and hip as well as by the withers. The blanket should go just past the belly. If it's down near the knees it's way too long and the horse will risk getting tripped up by the straps that attach underneath. Anything that's too big will be subject to twisting and getting tangled. Straps are pretty well always adjustable. They should be loose enough to not be touching the horse (it's not a girth!) but not so loose that they dangle. The chest straps should be snug enough that the blanket is not moving around.
Read more...
Beginner Blankets
Why do you have to put a blanket on her? Horses in the wild didn't have blankets. (post includes: why, how and types)
True enough, but horses in the wild also don't live the way my horse does. When you change their environment you must take responsibility for ensuring you do no damage. For one thing, there weren't too many wild thoroughbreds running around Canada. Ever. (not that there aren't a bunch who pretend to be!) The climate is just too
harsh. There are some breeds particularly well adapted to winter conditions (Icelandic, Shetland, etc) -- they tend to be of the short, stocky, hairy kind -- all items that dispose them well for winter. If the average domestic horse were permitted to get nice and fat, grow a thick fur coat that's rarely groomed so it maintains
all its weatherproofing-oils, have enough space to move around and keep warm, and shelter from the nastier elements, they'd probably be just fine outside, naked, in the winter.
BUT we tend to stable most of our horses. Interference number one. That means the temperature will change differently than it would if they were always outside (may be significantly warmer indoors than out) -- which the horses' bodies don't adapt to well. Remember when you or I walk into a nice warm room from the bitter cold outside, we take off half a dozen layers and are then good to go. Your horse doesn't have that option. So he either grows a think winter coat and then comes in and sweats and makes himself ill, or he doesn't, and then goes out and spends all day shivering -- making him more prone to various illnesses and serious weightloss. By blanketing him, you
remove the need to grow the winter coat and thus keep him comfortable indoors and out. Some people will start blanketing in late Aug or early Sept, before it's *really* necessary, so that the horse really doesn't grow any winter coat at all.
Some of us also *gasp* ride all winter! This means the horse is expending energy she wouldn't in the wild. Energy that could otherwise be used for keeping her warm. Before riding, the horse is usually groomed - for health and safety - but this removes natural oils from the coat that are essential to "waterproofing" her. And
while being ridden, she will likely sweat - requiring long cooling periods and messing around with the natural coat oils. Often, to avoid the long cooling out periods, people will clip their horses. If your horse is clipped, she must be blanketed. Period.
Just like jackets, blankets (or rugs if you happen to be in the UK or Australia :) come in all different types, sizes, styles, etc. Your basics are:
So you get to the barn for your weekly lesson and discover your horse is wearing a blanket. Great! But ummmm.... How do you get it off to tack him up??? When taking a blanket off, the first thing you need to do is undo all the straps. Start at the back end of the horse; this is an important safety issue -- if something should
happen that resulted in sudden movement and gravity, you don't want the blanket on the ground tied around the horse's legs. The chest straps must always be done up if any leg straps are -- therefore, leg straps get undone first. There may be straps between his hind legs (these are optional, but common), if they're there, unclip them.
Then move to the side (almost always the left side) there will be one or two buckles. These straps may be straight (perpendicular to the ground) or on an angle. Undo these (be careful not to let them hit the horse's legs as they fall!) Then go to the front of the horse and undo the chest straps. Now that all buckles are undone, hold
the blanket where it crosses the withers, and fold it back to the tail (so the blanket is now folded in half). Do that once more from the middle to the back (blanket now folded in quarters, sitting on the horse's hindquarters). Then slide the whole thing off the back and fold it width-wise and hang it up or put it somewhere out of the way. It is important to take it off this way for a couple reasons:
Now of course there IS an exception. Some blankets don't have chest buckles -- the chest area is sewn shut. In this case you fold backwards (butt to withers) and then slide the whole thing up and over his head. These blankets require care when using and are a bit of a pita to deal with so I'd recommend avoiding unless absolutely
necessary. Why would it be necessary? Sometimes for fit and sometimes because you own an escape artist who undoes the buckles :)
And putting it back on? Well that's just the reverse process. Lay the blanket on the hindquarters, unfold it up to the withers. Do up the chest straps FIRST (note this is the opposite of taking it off when they're the last thing done. Remember the reason for this is that if only one thing is done up, it should be the chest. That way,
should the horse bolt or shy or any other horse-type behaviour, the blanket won't end up tied around his legs. Never have leg or belly straps tied when the chest straps are not done up!) After that the belly straps. If the straps are perpendicular to the ground, they do up straight (ie the strap at the front on the right, buckles to the
strap at the front on the left). If the straps are on an angle, they cross when you do them up (ie the strap at the front on the right does up to the strap at the BACK on the left). Then the leg straps -- two options here, either cross them (left strap attaches to right buckle). Or do them up each to their own side, but when you do up
the second strap loop it through the first one. The reason for this is two fold -- first it's a little more effective at stopping the blanket from twisting and second it stops the straps from rubbing on the horse's hind legs.
And after all that, why do you sometimes see horses wearing blankets in the summer??? These are actually fly sheets -- meant to keep the flies off, deflect sunlight to keep the horse cool, and stop the horse's coat from bleaching (which matters in some sports).
Read more...
True enough, but horses in the wild also don't live the way my horse does. When you change their environment you must take responsibility for ensuring you do no damage. For one thing, there weren't too many wild thoroughbreds running around Canada. Ever. (not that there aren't a bunch who pretend to be!) The climate is just too
harsh. There are some breeds particularly well adapted to winter conditions (Icelandic, Shetland, etc) -- they tend to be of the short, stocky, hairy kind -- all items that dispose them well for winter. If the average domestic horse were permitted to get nice and fat, grow a thick fur coat that's rarely groomed so it maintains
all its weatherproofing-oils, have enough space to move around and keep warm, and shelter from the nastier elements, they'd probably be just fine outside, naked, in the winter.
BUT we tend to stable most of our horses. Interference number one. That means the temperature will change differently than it would if they were always outside (may be significantly warmer indoors than out) -- which the horses' bodies don't adapt to well. Remember when you or I walk into a nice warm room from the bitter cold outside, we take off half a dozen layers and are then good to go. Your horse doesn't have that option. So he either grows a think winter coat and then comes in and sweats and makes himself ill, or he doesn't, and then goes out and spends all day shivering -- making him more prone to various illnesses and serious weightloss. By blanketing him, you
remove the need to grow the winter coat and thus keep him comfortable indoors and out. Some people will start blanketing in late Aug or early Sept, before it's *really* necessary, so that the horse really doesn't grow any winter coat at all.
Some of us also *gasp* ride all winter! This means the horse is expending energy she wouldn't in the wild. Energy that could otherwise be used for keeping her warm. Before riding, the horse is usually groomed - for health and safety - but this removes natural oils from the coat that are essential to "waterproofing" her. And
while being ridden, she will likely sweat - requiring long cooling periods and messing around with the natural coat oils. Often, to avoid the long cooling out periods, people will clip their horses. If your horse is clipped, she must be blanketed. Period.
Just like jackets, blankets (or rugs if you happen to be in the UK or Australia :) come in all different types, sizes, styles, etc. Your basics are:
- Coolers: usually a big rectangular piece of fabric, with two strings that can be used to tie around the chest and a strap that goes over the ears. Coolers are only used under supervision. They are used on a wet (either from sweat or because somebody just gave them a bath) horse to allow enough air circulation for the horse to
dry, but slows the rate of drying so the horse doesn't become sick. Picture when you work out in the winter: you get all hot and sweaty, then you stop and are fine for a couple minutes. But slowly you start shivering -- the wet from the sweat becomes cold, and if you don't do something about it you'll end up sick. Same goes for your
horse. Walking them with a cooler on and making sure they are *never* put away wet will help. Also, do not just put on one of their other blankets while they're wet -- the blanket will get wet on the inside, thereby making it completely ineffective. (essentially like wearing a wet jacket). You can also now get coolers that
actually have front straps and sometimes belly straps to help hold it in place while you're cooling the horse out. Just make sure it's of a fabric that is going to take the sweat away from the horse -- fleece does not work well! - Sheets: usually cotton, these blankets are very lightweight and not waterproof. They are meant to be worn indoors by stabled horses -- particularly on cool fall nights when blankets are not *quite* necessary yet, but it still gets chilly in the barn.
- Rain sheets: lightweight blankets that are essentially a waterproof shell with no insulation. May or may not have a liner.
- Light-weight, Mid-weight, Heavy-weight blankets: the weight referenced here is the amount of insulation, not the physical weight of the blanket (which may be quite light even for a heavy-weight :)
- Quarter-sheet: this is used while riding to keep the horse's hindquarters warm. Particularly if they're going to have to stand still for any length of time. It has straps for the girth to go through and one at the back for the tail. These stop it from sliding backwards or sideways.
So you get to the barn for your weekly lesson and discover your horse is wearing a blanket. Great! But ummmm.... How do you get it off to tack him up??? When taking a blanket off, the first thing you need to do is undo all the straps. Start at the back end of the horse; this is an important safety issue -- if something should
happen that resulted in sudden movement and gravity, you don't want the blanket on the ground tied around the horse's legs. The chest straps must always be done up if any leg straps are -- therefore, leg straps get undone first. There may be straps between his hind legs (these are optional, but common), if they're there, unclip them.
Then move to the side (almost always the left side) there will be one or two buckles. These straps may be straight (perpendicular to the ground) or on an angle. Undo these (be careful not to let them hit the horse's legs as they fall!) Then go to the front of the horse and undo the chest straps. Now that all buckles are undone, hold
the blanket where it crosses the withers, and fold it back to the tail (so the blanket is now folded in half). Do that once more from the middle to the back (blanket now folded in quarters, sitting on the horse's hindquarters). Then slide the whole thing off the back and fold it width-wise and hang it up or put it somewhere out of the way. It is important to take it off this way for a couple reasons:
- when folded like that it's much easier to put back on
- much safer as it avoids spooking the horse and there are no random straps flying everywhere as you try and pull it off
- much easier to manipulate (these blankets are big and oddly shaped!)
Now of course there IS an exception. Some blankets don't have chest buckles -- the chest area is sewn shut. In this case you fold backwards (butt to withers) and then slide the whole thing up and over his head. These blankets require care when using and are a bit of a pita to deal with so I'd recommend avoiding unless absolutely
necessary. Why would it be necessary? Sometimes for fit and sometimes because you own an escape artist who undoes the buckles :)
And putting it back on? Well that's just the reverse process. Lay the blanket on the hindquarters, unfold it up to the withers. Do up the chest straps FIRST (note this is the opposite of taking it off when they're the last thing done. Remember the reason for this is that if only one thing is done up, it should be the chest. That way,
should the horse bolt or shy or any other horse-type behaviour, the blanket won't end up tied around his legs. Never have leg or belly straps tied when the chest straps are not done up!) After that the belly straps. If the straps are perpendicular to the ground, they do up straight (ie the strap at the front on the right, buckles to the
strap at the front on the left). If the straps are on an angle, they cross when you do them up (ie the strap at the front on the right does up to the strap at the BACK on the left). Then the leg straps -- two options here, either cross them (left strap attaches to right buckle). Or do them up each to their own side, but when you do up
the second strap loop it through the first one. The reason for this is two fold -- first it's a little more effective at stopping the blanket from twisting and second it stops the straps from rubbing on the horse's hind legs.
And after all that, why do you sometimes see horses wearing blankets in the summer??? These are actually fly sheets -- meant to keep the flies off, deflect sunlight to keep the horse cool, and stop the horse's coat from bleaching (which matters in some sports).
Read more...
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Review Int/Adv Teeth
When is your horse said to have a full mouth? What does that mean?
How do deciduous teeth look different from permanent teeth?
When does Galvayne's Groove appear? Where does it appear?
What age do the middle permanent incisors come in?
How does the shape of the horse's teeth change over time?
When does the dental star first appear?
Read more...
How do deciduous teeth look different from permanent teeth?
When does Galvayne's Groove appear? Where does it appear?
What age do the middle permanent incisors come in?
How does the shape of the horse's teeth change over time?
When does the dental star first appear?
Read more...
Int./Adv Teeth
Don't look a gift horse in the mouth. But why? Well because you're likely evaluating it's age -- the ancient world's equivalent of checking the price tag of a gift you've received :)
But what would you be checking for? Well you know (since you either already know OR you read the beginner section :) that a horse's teeth never stop growing. So it stands to reason that they change shape over the years and with practice you can learn to judge the horse's age. Now this is unfortunately never really accurate beyond about age 7 -- but it can, at least, put you in the right ballpark. Why not accurate? Because as we know, wear changes based (among other things) on diet. So every horse's teeth will change at a slightly different rate.
So the very first thing to check -- does your horse still have baby teeth (if so, they're under the age of five). If they do, how many do they have?
Incisors
Note, while it's a lot harder to check the molars, they also come in on schedule:
Premolars (the set at the front of the mouth, meets the bars)
Molars (the set at the back of the mouth)
Note for both molars and premolars the count goes from front to back. PM1, the wolf teeth, are closest to the incisors, PM2 the next tooth back, etc.
Your horse is said to have a "full mouth" about age 5 when all permanent incisors, premolars and molars are in. How to tell? Deciduous teeth tend to be smaller (I know, big surprise eh?), whiter, and have several grooves on the surface. If the teeth are big, yellow, and rectangular in shape, they're probably permanent. A good thing to do is find a horse who you know is 3 or 4 years of age and look at their teeth to see the difference between the baby teeth and the adult teeth. Ummmm find either a very patient horse or get somebody to help you do this the first time ;) Just a suggestion.
Note that if the gelding or stallion has canines it means they must be at least 4 years old (often these don't come in till 5).
After 5 things get a little trickier, but there are things you can specifically look for:
Then the other thing to evaluate (requires more practice) is the shape of the teeth:
Read more...
But what would you be checking for? Well you know (since you either already know OR you read the beginner section :) that a horse's teeth never stop growing. So it stands to reason that they change shape over the years and with practice you can learn to judge the horse's age. Now this is unfortunately never really accurate beyond about age 7 -- but it can, at least, put you in the right ballpark. Why not accurate? Because as we know, wear changes based (among other things) on diet. So every horse's teeth will change at a slightly different rate.
So the very first thing to check -- does your horse still have baby teeth (if so, they're under the age of five). If they do, how many do they have?
Incisors
- Deciduous central incisors - come in at birth or within the first two weeks
- Deciduous middle incisors - come in at 4-6 weeks old
- Deciduous corner incisors - come in at 6-9 months
- Permanent central incisors - come in 2.5-3 years
- Permanent middle incisors - come in 3.5-4 years
- Permanent corner incisors - come in 4.5-5 years
Note, while it's a lot harder to check the molars, they also come in on schedule:
Premolars (the set at the front of the mouth, meets the bars)
- Wolf teeth (technically PM1) - no deciduous set, permanent ones at 5-6 months (if ever)
- All three other deciduous sets: come in at birth or within the first two weeks
- Permanent PM2 - 2.5 years
- Permanent PM3 - 3 years
- Permanent PM4 - 4 years
Molars (the set at the back of the mouth)
- There are no deciduous molars. The horse gets permanent ones as they get older.
- 1st - 9-12 months
- 2nd - 2 years
- 3rd - 3.5 years
Note for both molars and premolars the count goes from front to back. PM1, the wolf teeth, are closest to the incisors, PM2 the next tooth back, etc.
Your horse is said to have a "full mouth" about age 5 when all permanent incisors, premolars and molars are in. How to tell? Deciduous teeth tend to be smaller (I know, big surprise eh?), whiter, and have several grooves on the surface. If the teeth are big, yellow, and rectangular in shape, they're probably permanent. A good thing to do is find a horse who you know is 3 or 4 years of age and look at their teeth to see the difference between the baby teeth and the adult teeth. Ummmm find either a very patient horse or get somebody to help you do this the first time ;) Just a suggestion.
Note that if the gelding or stallion has canines it means they must be at least 4 years old (often these don't come in till 5).
After 5 things get a little trickier, but there are things you can specifically look for:
- The cups - in young horses you can see a cup in the incisors (essentially an oval shaped concave area that will eventually be worn away). By 9 the cups are gone (usually leave central incisors about 7, middle around 8, and corner around 9).
- The dental star - this appears at about 6 years of age (in the central incisor - other incisors to follow in the next year or two). If you look at the top of the incisor, you'll see a dark yellow/brown circular/star shape (technically what you're seeing is a dentin-filled pulp chamber -- don't you feel smarter now?). At this age it starts out as a narrow line and morphs into a rounder and bigger shape with age - most dramatic around age 10 (and then usually disappears entirely between 15 and 20). It's toward the front of the tooth.
- The hook - at about 7 years of age (and sometimes again at 9) a hook will appear on the upper corner incisor.
- Galvayne's Groove - a dark line that runs longitudinally on the upper corner incisor. This shows up about 10 years old, is half way down the tooth at 15, all the way down the tooth by 20, gone by 25. Useful if it's there but not all horses show this.
Then the other thing to evaluate (requires more practice) is the shape of the teeth:
- On a young horse the shape will be oval, then it will square off to become more rectangular. In old age the corners are worn and you end up with an almost triangular shape.
- Similarly the angle (when viewed from the side) at which the incisors meet changes. A young horse the teeth meet almost straight up and down like | (technically about 135deg for those who like those things - it's hard to show that accuracy in ascii art :). In an older horse though (age 20+), the angle has changed dramatically so that the incisors meet at almost 90deg (looks like < then).
Read more...
Review Beginner Teeth
Label the diagram. Which is the upper jaw? How do you know? Is this a mare or a gelding? How do you know?
What is floating the teeth?
What are four signs your horse may need his teeth floated?
Which teeth are usually pulled? Why?
How many teeth does your horse have?
Read more...
Beginner Teeth
So in the Intermediate section of Preventative Care, I promised more info about teeth. Without further ado, all you never wanted to know (and then some!)
So you know your horse has teeth. Big ones. Sharp ones. You may even have had the misfortune of having felt them before! Do you have any idea how many teeth your horse has? And did you realize that they are *always* growing?
So your horse likely has between 36 and 40 teeth depending on whether it's a mare or a gelding/stallion (mares usually don't have canine teeth) and whether or not the wolf teeth come in (wolf teeth, if they appear, are almost always pulled as they can be painful and may interfere with the bit).
By 9 months a foal will have a full set of 24 baby teeth (called deciduous teeth - like deciduous trees, they shed). These will eventually be replaced by permanent teeth -- usually by the age of 5. They will also pick up 12 new molars, possibly wolf teeth, and for geldings and stallions the canine teeth (four).
Got all that?
Ok so now you know how many teeth your horse has and where they go, but what about the idea that they're always growing? This is why somebody who's really old might be said to be "long in the tooth". They also form a much sharper angle as they get older (young teeth, the top incisor meet the bottom like | Old teeth the top incisors meet the bottom like < -- in a horse looking left that is Gotta love ascii illustration!). Now while they are always growing, they are also always wearing down; and in a perfect scenario, at about the same rate. It's that whole "perfect scenario" thing that causes problems.
Your horse's top jaw is wider than the bottom. When he grazes in the wild his jaw moves from side-to-side as he munches - for up to 18h a day! What a life :) This helps keep the wear on the teeth even. But when the horse eats hard feed (ie pellets, grain, etc) the jaw moves much less, which means the teeth do not wear evenly. The stabled horse is also far less likely to spend all day grazing. This combination of less grazing and less jaw movement causes very sharp points appear on the outside of the upper molars and the inside of the lower ones. To help with this we "float" or rasp the teeth -- usually needs to be done about once/year, but they should be checked every six months, just in case. This basically files the sharp points off so your horse can be comfortable.
Some signs that your horse may need his teeth done include:
Copious amounts of information today. Did you get it all?
Read more...
So you know your horse has teeth. Big ones. Sharp ones. You may even have had the misfortune of having felt them before! Do you have any idea how many teeth your horse has? And did you realize that they are *always* growing?
So your horse likely has between 36 and 40 teeth depending on whether it's a mare or a gelding/stallion (mares usually don't have canine teeth) and whether or not the wolf teeth come in (wolf teeth, if they appear, are almost always pulled as they can be painful and may interfere with the bit).
- The incisors (officially I1, I2, I3 from the middle out) are the central incisor (1), the middle incisor (2), and the corner incisor (3). Creative eh? These are used for biting the food -- just like yours!
- Then there is a gap, technically the "interdental space" but more commonly known as the bars, this is where the bit rests.
- At the far back, again as in your mouth, are the molars (6). These are the chewing teeth, used to grind the food for digestion. The three molars closest to the front are referred to as the premolars.
- Wolf teeth (5), if they appear, are found right in front of the molars and tend to be short and pointy. They provide no real benefit to the current domestic horse. These usually only come in on the upper jaw.
- Canine teeth (4), aka Tushes, in the boys, are in the space between the incisors and the molars (called the.... ??? that'd be the bars -- look up a couple points!). They usually don't exactly line up with each other -- the lower jaw canines are closer to the incisors than the upper jaw. These tend to be super sharp. You do very occasionally see them in mares, but usually they're unerrupted (a bump under the gums) or tiny.
By 9 months a foal will have a full set of 24 baby teeth (called deciduous teeth - like deciduous trees, they shed). These will eventually be replaced by permanent teeth -- usually by the age of 5. They will also pick up 12 new molars, possibly wolf teeth, and for geldings and stallions the canine teeth (four).
Got all that?
Ok so now you know how many teeth your horse has and where they go, but what about the idea that they're always growing? This is why somebody who's really old might be said to be "long in the tooth". They also form a much sharper angle as they get older (young teeth, the top incisor meet the bottom like | Old teeth the top incisors meet the bottom like < -- in a horse looking left that is
Your horse's top jaw is wider than the bottom. When he grazes in the wild his jaw moves from side-to-side as he munches - for up to 18h a day! What a life :) This helps keep the wear on the teeth even. But when the horse eats hard feed (ie pellets, grain, etc) the jaw moves much less, which means the teeth do not wear evenly. The stabled horse is also far less likely to spend all day grazing. This combination of less grazing and less jaw movement causes very sharp points appear on the outside of the upper molars and the inside of the lower ones. To help with this we "float" or rasp the teeth -- usually needs to be done about once/year, but they should be checked every six months, just in case. This basically files the sharp points off so your horse can be comfortable.
Some signs that your horse may need his teeth done include:
- Head shaking or tossing, esp when riding.
- Feed packing (you may see bumps on the outsides of the molars because of accumulation of feed)
- Quidding (opposite of feed packing, the food basically drools out as he eats)
- Bitting problems
- Reluctant to eat
- Pulling/tilting the head to one side when being ridden
- You might find large particles of straw and oats in the manure
- Colics and impactions of the throat.
- Losing weight and condition, dull coat
- Frothing and excessive salivation (again, esp with the bit in)
Copious amounts of information today. Did you get it all?
Read more...
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Advanced Grooming: Clipping
If you're riding through the winter you may need to clip your horse. Why?
So you've decided to clip your horse (probably right after walking for over an hour after a lesson). What clip will you choose?
There are, of course, variations of all of the above. A particular favourite is the "I wish I were somewhere warm clip":
When clipping some important things:
Read more...
- to allow the horse to continue working without distress caused by excessive heat or sweating.
- the horse will cool and dry off more quickly after work. Helps prevent chills and saves walking time :)
- easier to keep a clipped horse clean; therefore easier to quickly discover any signs of heat, swelling, etc.
So you've decided to clip your horse (probably right after walking for over an hour after a lesson). What clip will you choose?
- Full clip: all the hair is removed. Looks very impressive when well done. Horse must be stabled and blanketed. Used for fit horses in regular work.
- Trace clip: hair is clipped under the neck and straight across from the point of the shoulder. Hair is left on the legs. Some leave the hair all the way up the hind legs and end the clip at the flanks. This horse may not need a blanket.
- Blanket clip: hair is left on the legs and in a quarter-sheet shape over the back and hind-quarters. This is for a stabled horse who feels the cold.
- Chaser clip: a variation of the blanket clip and used for the same reason.
- Strip clip: this is the most minimal clip -- the equine equivalent of unzipping your jacket. A horse with this clip may not need a blanket.
- Hunter clip: so called because is often used on field-hunters. Hair is left to protect the saddle are and the legs. A horse with this clip should be blanketed.
There are, of course, variations of all of the above. A particular favourite is the "I wish I were somewhere warm clip":
When clipping some important things:
- make sure the horse has been exposed to clippers and is ok with the noise first!
- clippers must be clean, sharp, and working correctly
- make sure there is a circuit breaker where the clippers are plugged in -- rubber soled shoes are also a good "just-in-case" idea.
- you will be covered in hair by the end of this so wear appropriate clothing.
- draw the clip on the horse (chalk, saddle soap, bright lipstick -- all possible options for drawing materials :)
- turn on the clippers and let them run for a few mins.
- clip against the direction of the hair (when the hair changes direction, so must the clippers!)
- it's a good idea to start at the shoulder as its less sensitive, less scary for the horse, and farther out of range of the hindlegs.
- long smooth strokes
- use your other hand to smooth the horse's skin so you don't pinch him
- when doing around the elbow, it's helpful to have somebody hold the leg forward.
- every 15 mins or so test the flat blade against the back of your hand -- if it's hot, you could burn your horse. Turn the clippers off for a few minutes (lots of cooling solutions available to accelerate this process). This is also a good time to clean and oil the blades.
- when you are done make sure to blanket the horse!
- clean your clippers before you put them away.
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Intermediate Grooming: Show Prep
So it's the day before your first show, you show up at the barn and you don't recognize your chestnut horse because she's now bay. hmmmmm a problem.
Step one - all of Beginner :)
Step two - if it's warm enough to bathe, find a friend to help hold your horse (or if you're really lucky, put the horse in a wash stall :) and give him a bath. Water, shampoo, curry, rinse and repeat. Comeon, it's not rocket science. Very very important that the "rinse" section be thorough. Walk or graze horse till dry (odds are if you put him back in the stall or outside he'll roll and you'll be back at step one again. Trust me on this one). If it's slightly cool out, make sure the horse has a cooler on while they're drying. Note, if you're going to braid, do not shampoo the mane. It'll make it too slippery.
Step three - groom again. Should be much easier this time! Make sure any white markings are actually white. There are other stain removers you can use to help with this if the shampoo didn't do it. Also handy last-second camouflage (like when it's the morning of and you're at the show and despite all your hard work the night before the horse is once again green :) corn starch quickly makes white white. Make sure you do this *before* you paint the hooves (which can be done right before you go in :)
Step four - comb out the mane and tail. Make sure you use a comb rather than a brush as the brush will pull out too much hair.
Step five - trim the legs, face, ears and bridlepath. The exception to this is if your horse is living outside -- he'll need the protection provided so consider that before you get clipper-happy!
Step six - if the mane isn't already short and even, pull it. To do this first comb the mane to the right side. The take a couple hairs from underneath, back-comb them, and then pull them out. Repeat going all along the length of the mane until it's thin and short (should be a little over a handspan long). If you have never pulled a mane before, for the sake of your horse, please get somebody who knows what they're doing to supervise!
Step seven - braid the mane. Lots of people leave this till the morning of. For me it depends how *early* that morning is beginning! It also depends on the horse as some will take them all out overnight and you'll just have to start over anyways. That being said, whenever you decide to do it, the key to braiding is not the number of braids but rather to have them evenly spaced and neat. Separate the mane into sections that will be braided. Braid each one using either elastic or string to tie them. Then bobble them (tuck them underneath) -- how depends whether elastics or string, but either way when you look at the neck from the other side, you shouldn't see the braids popping up.
Random notes: show sheen (and variations thereof) is great for detangling the tail. It should not take the place of good grooming to make the rest of the horse shine though. If you *must* use it on the coat, be sure not to use it where the saddle goes!
Before you put the horse away for the night, muck out the stall and put in fresh shavings -- greatly increases your odds of having a clean horse when you get back in the morning. Especially if your horse happens to be gray.
Read more...
Step one - all of Beginner :)
Step two - if it's warm enough to bathe, find a friend to help hold your horse (or if you're really lucky, put the horse in a wash stall :) and give him a bath. Water, shampoo, curry, rinse and repeat. Comeon, it's not rocket science. Very very important that the "rinse" section be thorough. Walk or graze horse till dry (odds are if you put him back in the stall or outside he'll roll and you'll be back at step one again. Trust me on this one). If it's slightly cool out, make sure the horse has a cooler on while they're drying. Note, if you're going to braid, do not shampoo the mane. It'll make it too slippery.
Step three - groom again. Should be much easier this time! Make sure any white markings are actually white. There are other stain removers you can use to help with this if the shampoo didn't do it. Also handy last-second camouflage (like when it's the morning of and you're at the show and despite all your hard work the night before the horse is once again green :) corn starch quickly makes white white. Make sure you do this *before* you paint the hooves (which can be done right before you go in :)
Step four - comb out the mane and tail. Make sure you use a comb rather than a brush as the brush will pull out too much hair.
Step five - trim the legs, face, ears and bridlepath. The exception to this is if your horse is living outside -- he'll need the protection provided so consider that before you get clipper-happy!
Step six - if the mane isn't already short and even, pull it. To do this first comb the mane to the right side. The take a couple hairs from underneath, back-comb them, and then pull them out. Repeat going all along the length of the mane until it's thin and short (should be a little over a handspan long). If you have never pulled a mane before, for the sake of your horse, please get somebody who knows what they're doing to supervise!
Step seven - braid the mane. Lots of people leave this till the morning of. For me it depends how *early* that morning is beginning! It also depends on the horse as some will take them all out overnight and you'll just have to start over anyways. That being said, whenever you decide to do it, the key to braiding is not the number of braids but rather to have them evenly spaced and neat. Separate the mane into sections that will be braided. Braid each one using either elastic or string to tie them. Then bobble them (tuck them underneath) -- how depends whether elastics or string, but either way when you look at the neck from the other side, you shouldn't see the braids popping up.
Random notes: show sheen (and variations thereof) is great for detangling the tail. It should not take the place of good grooming to make the rest of the horse shine though. If you *must* use it on the coat, be sure not to use it where the saddle goes!
Before you put the horse away for the night, muck out the stall and put in fresh shavings -- greatly increases your odds of having a clean horse when you get back in the morning. Especially if your horse happens to be gray.
Read more...
Beginner Grooming
It's spring! Woohoo! Except that with horses Spring = Mud. hmmmm less good. So what are you going to do about it? First step, get out your grooming kit:
1. Dandy brush: aka the hard brush. This along with the curry comb (see 9) are what is going to get most of the mud off. Used in a short flicking motion in the direction of the coat, this brush is used on the well-padded areas of the horse (neck, back, barrel, hindquarters, etc. Not legs/face.)
2. Sponges: just normal every-day sponges. You don't need the tack-store (read expensive!) version. Used for cleaning the nostrils and under the tail/between the hind legs (best if you have two separate sponges!) Giant-sized sponges used for bathing.
3. Mane comb: really, I think it's pretty self explanatory :)
4. Hoof oil: there are varying beliefs on how useful this is. Certainly makes the hooves look good right before you go in the ring, but for daily use most farriers I've spoken to do not recommend it. Various types advertise strengthening factors while others suggest moisturizing. If you're trying to encourage growth, Cornucrescine would be a better plan. Also not an every day thing though -- follow instructions carefully!
5. Body brush: aka soft brush. This is used in slightly longer flicks after you're done with the dandy brush. Helps get out that last layer of dust and oil and leaves the horse shiny. The body brush can be used on the face and legs as well.
6. Towel: traditionally anyways, but I gotta tell ya, dry Swiffers are amazing for this :) Used after the body brush to add a last shine. Particularly if it's a hot, dusty show day and you're on a black horse that shows every speck of dust.
7. Cactus cloth: absolutely amazing for getting sweat stains out! These are often sold now in a mitt with fleece on the other side. Favourite "extra" grooming tool ever. Use the cactus cloth then turn over and the fleece works like the swiffer :)
8. Hoof pick: should be used first. Before any brushes. If your horse has a stone in his shoe it's far more important to get that out then to get some mud off. After all, she went to a lot of effort to get that mud ON, let her enjoy it a moment later :)
9. Curry comb: comes in rubber or metal -- metal curries are too harsh for the horse, so make sure you've got a rubber one. The rubber curry is what's going to help you tackle the mud! Used in small circles against the direction of the hair it is used first and breaks up the much and raises the hair, so the dandy brush can do its job. This is not for use on the face or the legs and be considerate in the sensitive areas!
There are, of course, lots of variations on all of the above :) Otherwise it'd be boring. Now the order makes a huge difference:
If your horse has sweat marks that won't come out with the curry comb give the cactus cloth a go. Have fun!
Keep in mind that even when your horse isn't obviously muddy, you should still groom. Why?
Note that the best time for a thorough grooming is AFTER you ride as the pores will be more open after he's warmed up and he's likely to be more relaxed.
Read more...
1. Dandy brush: aka the hard brush. This along with the curry comb (see 9) are what is going to get most of the mud off. Used in a short flicking motion in the direction of the coat, this brush is used on the well-padded areas of the horse (neck, back, barrel, hindquarters, etc. Not legs/face.)
2. Sponges: just normal every-day sponges. You don't need the tack-store (read expensive!) version. Used for cleaning the nostrils and under the tail/between the hind legs (best if you have two separate sponges!) Giant-sized sponges used for bathing.
3. Mane comb: really, I think it's pretty self explanatory :)
4. Hoof oil: there are varying beliefs on how useful this is. Certainly makes the hooves look good right before you go in the ring, but for daily use most farriers I've spoken to do not recommend it. Various types advertise strengthening factors while others suggest moisturizing. If you're trying to encourage growth, Cornucrescine would be a better plan. Also not an every day thing though -- follow instructions carefully!
5. Body brush: aka soft brush. This is used in slightly longer flicks after you're done with the dandy brush. Helps get out that last layer of dust and oil and leaves the horse shiny. The body brush can be used on the face and legs as well.
6. Towel: traditionally anyways, but I gotta tell ya, dry Swiffers are amazing for this :) Used after the body brush to add a last shine. Particularly if it's a hot, dusty show day and you're on a black horse that shows every speck of dust.
7. Cactus cloth: absolutely amazing for getting sweat stains out! These are often sold now in a mitt with fleece on the other side. Favourite "extra" grooming tool ever. Use the cactus cloth then turn over and the fleece works like the swiffer :)
8. Hoof pick: should be used first. Before any brushes. If your horse has a stone in his shoe it's far more important to get that out then to get some mud off. After all, she went to a lot of effort to get that mud ON, let her enjoy it a moment later :)
9. Curry comb: comes in rubber or metal -- metal curries are too harsh for the horse, so make sure you've got a rubber one. The rubber curry is what's going to help you tackle the mud! Used in small circles against the direction of the hair it is used first and breaks up the much and raises the hair, so the dandy brush can do its job. This is not for use on the face or the legs and be considerate in the sensitive areas!
There are, of course, lots of variations on all of the above :) Otherwise it'd be boring. Now the order makes a huge difference:
- hoof pick - pick out all four feet :) You should make sure to pick from heel to toe - always away from you -- if you pick towards you you run the risk of digging any stone in deeper or digging into the frog or heels. Avoid picking the frog. Get somebody who knows what they're doing to show you how to do this properly.
- curry comb - small circles with some strength behind them to raise the dirt and hair.
- dandy brush - short flicks in the direction of the hair to remove the hair and dirt you just raised :)
- body brush - longer flicks in the direction of the hair to remove any leftover dust and raise the oil - makes the horse shiny. Don't use this on an outdoor horse because they need the natural oil for protection.
- sponge - in the nostrils and under the tail
If your horse has sweat marks that won't come out with the curry comb give the cactus cloth a go. Have fun!
Keep in mind that even when your horse isn't obviously muddy, you should still groom. Why?
- to make her look good :) Cause that's important of course
- to condition the skin and make the coat shine
- to prevent sores from dirt rubbing under the saddle or girth areas
- to check for injuries or skin problems (esp important around the legs)
- to promote good circulation
Note that the best time for a thorough grooming is AFTER you ride as the pores will be more open after he's warmed up and he's likely to be more relaxed.
Read more...
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Review Int/Adv Preventative Care
What are three things you can do other than deworming to help control parasites?
What are four signs your horse may have a parasite infestation? How can you find out for sure?
How often should you deworm your horse? Why is it important to rotate dewormers?
What are three things you can vaccinate against?
What do you need to prove your horse is not a carrier of EIA? Why does it matter?
What is quidding? What causes it? How can you fix it?
Read more...
What are four signs your horse may have a parasite infestation? How can you find out for sure?
How often should you deworm your horse? Why is it important to rotate dewormers?
What are three things you can vaccinate against?
What do you need to prove your horse is not a carrier of EIA? Why does it matter?
What is quidding? What causes it? How can you fix it?
Read more...
Int/Adv Preventative Care
Preventative care includes the things we do to avoid the horse getting sick in the first place. There are four important preventative care considerations: parasite control, vaccinations, teeth, and introducing new horses.
Parasite Control:
All horses have parasites. Let me repeat that: All horses have parasites. Since most cause problems and we do everything we can to eradicate them. There are a few things you can do to help control parasites:
So deworming -- horses should be dewormed every 8-12 weeks (most people seem to do once/season). Different dewormers kill off different parasites in different phases of their life-cycles. It is important to rotate dewormers so as to eliminate a wide variety and to help prevent any of the worms developing an immunity to the dewormer. Some of the common worms include:
You'll notice the signs for most of these are similar. In general, any combination of inexplicable weight loss, poor coat condition, rubbing the tail, lethargy, and constipation or diarrhea should have you de-worming your horse or at very least having a fecal test done. Colic is also a sign of parasites gone horribly wrong (really you should catch it before then), but since it can be caused by so many other things may not be a sign in itself.
In areas with winter, the only things you'll really be able to kill after the frost are small strongyles -- so a Moxidectin based dewormer is best used in the winter months. This should be followed with an Invermectin based wormer in the spring to kill off any adult strongyles that survived the winter. Through spring/summer/fall you can alternate between Ivermectin-based and Pyrantel-based. There are multiple brands and types of each of these. Twice a year a Praziquiantel (which is a relatively new super-wormer) is a good idea.
So just for the curious, here's a sched for one horse as an example for the year. This is a 5yo TB mare in good health who lives in Ontario and will be competing from May though Sept. Keep in mind this is just a sample -- your plan should be created in consultation with your vet.
Vaccinations
Like people, horses can be vaccinated against common diseases. Most vaccinations need to be boosted -- some annually, some more often. What you vaccinate against will depend, among other things, where you live and how much contact your horse has with outside horses. If you have a private farm with two back-yard ponies who never go anywhere, they're far less likely to catch something than a competitive horse at a large boarding barn where they get shipped to multiple shows, all obviously with other horses, AND all the ones they live with at home are doing the same thing. Anybody could bring something home and spread it.
Some of the common ones include:
As always, check with your vet about what they would recommend in your area.
Teeth:
Horses teeth continually grow. A horse's upper-jaw is wider than his lower-jaw. When they graze, the jaw moves in a side-to-side motion, and the molars wear out unevenly causing sharp points ("hooks") to appear on them. These can hurt. So every six months they should be checked and the sharp points need to be "floated" or filed. This is not a painful procedure but it is awkward and some horses really don't like the noise.
If a horse's mouth seems sore (particularly evident when the previously accepting horse starts flipping their head with any bit contact), or if they start quidding (which is when food dribbles out the side of their mouth as they're eating) they should absolutely be checked.
More on teeth another Thursday :)
New Horses:
When a new horse comes to a facility, proof of negative coggins should always be required. They should also be quarantined until their health is assured and introduced to the other horses slowly. Similarly, when bringing your horse away (ie to a show) it is important to keep them from the other horses. No rubbing noses, no sharing water buckets, food, or brushes. Little things that will keep your horse much healthier in the long run!
Read more...
Parasite Control:
All horses have parasites. Let me repeat that: All horses have parasites. Since most cause problems and we do everything we can to eradicate them. There are a few things you can do to help control parasites:
- De-worm your horse (more on this next paragraph :)
- Avoid overgrazing pasture
- Avoid keeping too many horses in one pasture
- Rotate pastures (horse parasites won't live in cattle and vise versa)
- Keep hay and grain away from manure
So deworming -- horses should be dewormed every 8-12 weeks (most people seem to do once/season). Different dewormers kill off different parasites in different phases of their life-cycles. It is important to rotate dewormers so as to eliminate a wide variety and to help prevent any of the worms developing an immunity to the dewormer. Some of the common worms include:
- Large Strongyles: these can cause serious damage. A blocked mesenteric artery (which supplies the intestine) can lead to severe colic, or a blocked iliac artery (which supplies the hind legs) can cause lameness or paralysis.
- Small Strongyles: also cause serious damage. Signs include weight loss, loss of appetite, diarrhea, and colic.
- Ascarids: most common in foals. These are disgustingly large worms. Signs include: poor coat, coughing, diarrhea, lack of appetite, pot belly, apathetic behaviour, and stunted growth.
- Bots: these are less harmful and among the easier to avoid. They lay their eggs on the horse's legs, chest, etc where they get licked off and swallowed. They look like little yellow dots, and if you make a point of removing them when they appear you'll help cut down significantly on the bot population. They can cause sores in the mouth, and sometimes stomach ulcers.
- Pinworms: not overly harmful in itself, but a sign that your strongyles dewormer probably isn't working overly well since they're killed off by the same thing. Pinworms lead to the horse rubbing its tail and sometimes you can see gray or yellow eggs around the anus. Pinworms are very rare in horses that live outdoors 24/7.
You'll notice the signs for most of these are similar. In general, any combination of inexplicable weight loss, poor coat condition, rubbing the tail, lethargy, and constipation or diarrhea should have you de-worming your horse or at very least having a fecal test done. Colic is also a sign of parasites gone horribly wrong (really you should catch it before then), but since it can be caused by so many other things may not be a sign in itself.
In areas with winter, the only things you'll really be able to kill after the frost are small strongyles -- so a Moxidectin based dewormer is best used in the winter months. This should be followed with an Invermectin based wormer in the spring to kill off any adult strongyles that survived the winter. Through spring/summer/fall you can alternate between Ivermectin-based and Pyrantel-based. There are multiple brands and types of each of these. Twice a year a Praziquiantel (which is a relatively new super-wormer) is a good idea.
So just for the curious, here's a sched for one horse as an example for the year. This is a 5yo TB mare in good health who lives in Ontario and will be competing from May though Sept. Keep in mind this is just a sample -- your plan should be created in consultation with your vet.
Vaccinations
Like people, horses can be vaccinated against common diseases. Most vaccinations need to be boosted -- some annually, some more often. What you vaccinate against will depend, among other things, where you live and how much contact your horse has with outside horses. If you have a private farm with two back-yard ponies who never go anywhere, they're far less likely to catch something than a competitive horse at a large boarding barn where they get shipped to multiple shows, all obviously with other horses, AND all the ones they live with at home are doing the same thing. Anybody could bring something home and spread it.
Some of the common ones include:
- Tetanus -- aka Lockjaw. Just as with people, this disease affects the nervous system. Usually caused by a dirty would, signs include stiffness of the head, neck and hind end, muscle spasms of the jaw, and the appearance of a third eyelid. There is an 80% mortality rate. Annual boosters are required. If you are working on a farm you would be smart to make sure YOUR tetanus vaccination is also up-to-date (although requires far less often booster).
- Rabies -- affects attitude and behaviour. Rabid horses will become violent -- biting, striking and rolling. It is almost always caused by a bite from an infected animal. This is also one of the few diseases that is transmissible to humans. Usually fatal.
- Encecphalitis (Eastern: EEE, Western: WEE, Venezuelan: VEE) -- a viral disease often transmitted by mosquitoes. 50-90% mortality rate. Booster shots annually if you have winter, every 6 mths if not.
- Influenza -- same concept as with people. Highly contagious but rarely fatal viral disease characterized by a high fever, cough, nasal discharge, depression and loss of appetite. Bi-annual vaccine, usually given spring and fall.
Rhinopneumonia -- a highly contagious viral infection with signs much like flu. This is most common in young horses. - Potomac Horse Fever -- believed to be carried by ticks (uncommon in this area). Signs include depression, loss of appetite, profuse watery diarrhea, distended abdomen, severe colic and sometimes laminitis. May be fatal. Annual vaccination.
- Strangles -- highly infections viral infection which affects the lymph nodes in the upper respiratory and cheek mucous membranes. This has been going around Ontario for the last few years, so be very aware if you're in this area and showing at all, you might want to consider this vaccination seriously. Signs are inflammation of the throat and cheeks, a fever of 39.5-41C (103-106F), reluctance to eat, and a moist cough. Annual Vaccination.
- West Nile -- a mosquito-spread neurological infection. Symptoms include listlessness, muscle twitching, weakness or paralysis in limbs, sometimes a fever. Can be fatal or have permanent complications. Annual booster.
- Equine Infections Anemia (EIA) -- aka Swamp Fever. Very serious, and any horse who survives it could become a carrier (who looks and acts normal while infecting the rest of the barn). Highly contagious, signs include a really high fever (40.5-41.2C, 105-106F0, rapid weight loss, anemia and hemorrhages of the mucous membranes. There is no cure, and most provinces require any horse that tests positive for EIA to be humanely destroyed. Most farms require proof that a horse is EIA negative before allowing any horse on the property. This proof is in the form of a Coggins test -- a simple blood test done by your vet. An annual coggins test is required for horses showing on most recognized circuits. There is no vaccination or cure for this disease.
As always, check with your vet about what they would recommend in your area.
Teeth:
Horses teeth continually grow. A horse's upper-jaw is wider than his lower-jaw. When they graze, the jaw moves in a side-to-side motion, and the molars wear out unevenly causing sharp points ("hooks") to appear on them. These can hurt. So every six months they should be checked and the sharp points need to be "floated" or filed. This is not a painful procedure but it is awkward and some horses really don't like the noise.
If a horse's mouth seems sore (particularly evident when the previously accepting horse starts flipping their head with any bit contact), or if they start quidding (which is when food dribbles out the side of their mouth as they're eating) they should absolutely be checked.
More on teeth another Thursday :)
New Horses:
When a new horse comes to a facility, proof of negative coggins should always be required. They should also be quarantined until their health is assured and introduced to the other horses slowly. Similarly, when bringing your horse away (ie to a show) it is important to keep them from the other horses. No rubbing noses, no sharing water buckets, food, or brushes. Little things that will keep your horse much healthier in the long run!
Read more...
Review Beginner Preventative Care: TPR
So what does TPR stand for?
Honestly, if you don't know the answer to that first question go back and reread. A few times. Then try again.
What are three "normals" you should know about your horse?
What should a resting horse's temperature be?
What should a resting horse's pulse be?
What's the next logical question?
What's the answer to the next logical question?
How do you check capillary refill time? What is the acceptable time-range?
Where are two places you can take the pulse?
Got all that? Great! Now go find out what all the normals are for your horse!
Read more...
Honestly, if you don't know the answer to that first question go back and reread. A few times. Then try again.
What are three "normals" you should know about your horse?
What should a resting horse's temperature be?
What should a resting horse's pulse be?
What's the next logical question?
What's the answer to the next logical question?
How do you check capillary refill time? What is the acceptable time-range?
Where are two places you can take the pulse?
Got all that? Great! Now go find out what all the normals are for your horse!
Read more...
Beginner Preventative Care: TPR
Not as many pictures today... Sorry about that. Hope you enjoy anyways! On the plus side, no diagrams to memorize :)
Preventative care includes everything we do to keep our horses healthy before they get sick. At the beginner level the most important thing you can do is know what is normal. That sounds so obvious, but it's the little details that count.
In order to judge if something's wrong, you must first know what is normal. For instance, if your gelding usually loves being groomed and is all happy when you brush him, and then one day is suddenly really snarky, nipping and pinning his ears when you brush him, there's probably something wrong. Or if your mare always pays attention to what's going on, comes over to see you when you open the stall door, watches people in the hall way, and then one day is standing with her head in the far corner of the stall not looking at anybody, odds are good she's not well. What's important here is knowing what is *normal*. Some horses are ALWAYS grouchy when they're groomed, so it's not a worry sign. Some horses ALWAYS ignore the world, again that's just fine. It's when there's a sudden change in behaviour that there's reason for concern. And to know the change, you have to know what is normal.
Some examples of behaviour you should know about:
Horse's are creatures of habit; when something changes in their habit, you have to be aware of it. A horse who is usually neat and suddenly has a messy stall has probably been pacing or kicking -- either she doesn't like her new neighbour or she's not feeling well.
Another series of important normals to know are your horse's TPR. TPR stands for Temperature, Pulse and Respiration and is one of the first things the vet will want to know when you call. A horse's temperature at rest (when they haven't been exercising) should be between 98.5 - 101 F or 37.5 - 38.5 C. You should know what normal is for your horse. To find the temperature (btw please do NOT try this on your own the first time -- make sure you have an experienced horse-person with you!) you need a rectal thermometer that has a string tied to one end. Dip the thermometer in vaseline. If you're using an "old-fashioned" thermometer (that'd be non-digital, mercury based) make sure you shake it a few times -- hold the top and flick your wrist down -- so the mercury is in the right place. Stand at your horse's hind end, slightly off to the side, tie the string to your horse's tail, lift the tail and slide the thermometer in. Be sure to pay attention as some horses (understandably!) don't care for this and may kick out! Leave the thermometer in for a few minutes then slide it out. Wipe it off on the towel (not running it under water!) and read the number. Make sure after you're finished you clean and disinfect the thermometer! A horse who has just finished exercising, is eating, or is stressed will have a higher temperature, so it's always best to take their temperature when they're at rest. A horse at rest with a temp around 39C (102F) has a mild fever, 39.5-40 (103-104) is moderate (call the vet), and above 40 (104) high (definitely call the vet now!). A horse whose temperature drops lower than normal is likely in shock. Also call the vet.
So TPR is Temperature, Pulse, and Respiration. The Temperature should be 37.5-38.5C (98.5-101.5F). Next in the list is P: Pulse. The pulse at rest should be between 32 and 40 beats per minute. This too will be elevated after exercise or with stress (just think of how fast your own heart beats if you're excited -- so does your horse's!) You should know what the normal resting pulse is. You should also for conditioning purposes take the pulse during and after work -- once you know what the normals are there, you'll be able to tell if your horse is working too hard or is stressed. For those who event, the vet will sometimes check your horse's pulse after XC; if it doesn't return quickly enough to normal, your horse will be deemed unfit and you'll be out. To take the pulse you use two fingers (not the thumb) and feel inside the lower jaw -- there's an artery there that you press gently against the bone. You have to press firmly enough to feel it and lightly enough not to cut off the pressure. Count the beats for 15 seconds and multiply by 2 (at least if you're doing the EC test. Everybody will give you a different number for their favourite counting methodology). The other place you can find it (harder with fingers, but easier with a stethoscope) is at the top of the front leg on the inside, right in front of the elbow. There is also technically a digital pulse (digit = limb... the digital pulse is felt at the back of the pastern. Remember where that is? If not, review Theory Thursday 1 - Anatomy) but if you can feel that it's a pretty safe bet your horse has laminitis (more on that another day!). So it's not a good place to be checking when you really just want the pulse.
So TPR is Temperature, Pulse and Respiration. The resting temperature should be 37.5-38.5 (99.5-101.5); pulse should be 32-40, and then we have the third item -- respiration. Respiration is breathing rate and should be 10-14 beats/minute (at rest -- just like when you run you end up huffing and puffing, so does your horse! And just like you, one of the signs of fitness is how quickly their breathing returns to normal. But for you to know how they're doing, you have to know what normal is!). The easiest way to check the respiration is by watching the horse's flanks. The breaths should be even and regular and at rest are reasonably shallow. Remember in and out counts as one!
The other random that a vet will often ask for along with TPR is the capillary refill time (particularly if you're calling about colic!). To check this you need to turn up your horse's lip and press on his gums (over the teeth). This will change them white where you've put pressure. When you let go they should turn back to pink in under 2 seconds. If not, circulation is not what it should be.
One other thing that doesn't really fit here, but is easy and important to know is the wrinkle test. Horses require a lot of water and dehydration can be fatal. The wrinkle test is a quick way of ascertaining if your horse is dehydrated. All you do is pinch the skin on the neck -- if it takes more than two seconds to snap back into place, it's not a good sign...
That was a reasonable amount of Very Important Information to take in. Did you get it all?
Read more...
Preventative care includes everything we do to keep our horses healthy before they get sick. At the beginner level the most important thing you can do is know what is normal. That sounds so obvious, but it's the little details that count.
In order to judge if something's wrong, you must first know what is normal. For instance, if your gelding usually loves being groomed and is all happy when you brush him, and then one day is suddenly really snarky, nipping and pinning his ears when you brush him, there's probably something wrong. Or if your mare always pays attention to what's going on, comes over to see you when you open the stall door, watches people in the hall way, and then one day is standing with her head in the far corner of the stall not looking at anybody, odds are good she's not well. What's important here is knowing what is *normal*. Some horses are ALWAYS grouchy when they're groomed, so it's not a worry sign. Some horses ALWAYS ignore the world, again that's just fine. It's when there's a sudden change in behaviour that there's reason for concern. And to know the change, you have to know what is normal.
Some examples of behaviour you should know about:
- How does he react to people/horses/environment around him?
- Does she always eat all her food?
- How much water does he usually drink?
- Does she usually lie down in her stall?
- How much manure is normal in his stall?
- How clean is her stall?
- What are some you can think of?
Horse's are creatures of habit; when something changes in their habit, you have to be aware of it. A horse who is usually neat and suddenly has a messy stall has probably been pacing or kicking -- either she doesn't like her new neighbour or she's not feeling well.
Another series of important normals to know are your horse's TPR. TPR stands for Temperature, Pulse and Respiration and is one of the first things the vet will want to know when you call. A horse's temperature at rest (when they haven't been exercising) should be between 98.5 - 101 F or 37.5 - 38.5 C. You should know what normal is for your horse. To find the temperature (btw please do NOT try this on your own the first time -- make sure you have an experienced horse-person with you!) you need a rectal thermometer that has a string tied to one end. Dip the thermometer in vaseline. If you're using an "old-fashioned" thermometer (that'd be non-digital, mercury based) make sure you shake it a few times -- hold the top and flick your wrist down -- so the mercury is in the right place. Stand at your horse's hind end, slightly off to the side, tie the string to your horse's tail, lift the tail and slide the thermometer in. Be sure to pay attention as some horses (understandably!) don't care for this and may kick out! Leave the thermometer in for a few minutes then slide it out. Wipe it off on the towel (not running it under water!) and read the number. Make sure after you're finished you clean and disinfect the thermometer! A horse who has just finished exercising, is eating, or is stressed will have a higher temperature, so it's always best to take their temperature when they're at rest. A horse at rest with a temp around 39C (102F) has a mild fever, 39.5-40 (103-104) is moderate (call the vet), and above 40 (104) high (definitely call the vet now!). A horse whose temperature drops lower than normal is likely in shock. Also call the vet.
So TPR is Temperature, Pulse, and Respiration. The Temperature should be 37.5-38.5C (98.5-101.5F). Next in the list is P: Pulse. The pulse at rest should be between 32 and 40 beats per minute. This too will be elevated after exercise or with stress (just think of how fast your own heart beats if you're excited -- so does your horse's!) You should know what the normal resting pulse is. You should also for conditioning purposes take the pulse during and after work -- once you know what the normals are there, you'll be able to tell if your horse is working too hard or is stressed. For those who event, the vet will sometimes check your horse's pulse after XC; if it doesn't return quickly enough to normal, your horse will be deemed unfit and you'll be out. To take the pulse you use two fingers (not the thumb) and feel inside the lower jaw -- there's an artery there that you press gently against the bone. You have to press firmly enough to feel it and lightly enough not to cut off the pressure. Count the beats for 15 seconds and multiply by 2 (at least if you're doing the EC test. Everybody will give you a different number for their favourite counting methodology). The other place you can find it (harder with fingers, but easier with a stethoscope) is at the top of the front leg on the inside, right in front of the elbow. There is also technically a digital pulse (digit = limb... the digital pulse is felt at the back of the pastern. Remember where that is? If not, review Theory Thursday 1 - Anatomy) but if you can feel that it's a pretty safe bet your horse has laminitis (more on that another day!). So it's not a good place to be checking when you really just want the pulse.
So TPR is Temperature, Pulse and Respiration. The resting temperature should be 37.5-38.5 (99.5-101.5); pulse should be 32-40, and then we have the third item -- respiration. Respiration is breathing rate and should be 10-14 beats/minute (at rest -- just like when you run you end up huffing and puffing, so does your horse! And just like you, one of the signs of fitness is how quickly their breathing returns to normal. But for you to know how they're doing, you have to know what normal is!). The easiest way to check the respiration is by watching the horse's flanks. The breaths should be even and regular and at rest are reasonably shallow. Remember in and out counts as one!
The other random that a vet will often ask for along with TPR is the capillary refill time (particularly if you're calling about colic!). To check this you need to turn up your horse's lip and press on his gums (over the teeth). This will change them white where you've put pressure. When you let go they should turn back to pink in under 2 seconds. If not, circulation is not what it should be.
One other thing that doesn't really fit here, but is easy and important to know is the wrinkle test. Horses require a lot of water and dehydration can be fatal. The wrinkle test is a quick way of ascertaining if your horse is dehydrated. All you do is pinch the skin on the neck -- if it takes more than two seconds to snap back into place, it's not a good sign...
That was a reasonable amount of Very Important Information to take in. Did you get it all?
Read more...
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Advanced Shoeing
Ok so first off, Keg shoes are your standard "off the rack" shoes that can be heated, shaped and modified. (see Beginner for parts of :) These come in a variety of sizes and styles and can be used for many horses.
However, horses with movement related issues may need therapeutic shoes. Changes to the shoe (ie weight, shape, angle, etc) can make a critical difference to how the foot breaks over (by adding a roll), it's flight pattern, and how it lands. Here are some of the more interesting shoes that can be used for corrective purposes:
1. Trailer Shoe - this has one heel extended; used to help a foot that naturally twists land straight.
2. Square Toe - these are sometimes used on hind feet to limit forging and over-reaching (see Movement)
3 and 7 Rolled Toe - used for horses that stumble or trip often as it aids in the breakover phrase of the stride (see Movement). Aka Rocker toe.
4. Bar Shoe - therapeutic shoe used to remove or apply pressure to different parts of the foot.
5. Heart Bar Shoe - particular bar shoe often used for horses with laminitis (more on this another Thursday!).
6. Egg Bar Shoe - another standard therapeutic shoe, often used for horses with navicular (more on this another Thursday!)
Other Shoe-Related Items:
Pads - these are often added between the foot and the shoe. Can provide protection to the sole (esp if your horse has super-sensitive feet), help reduce concussion, and help treat some issues. There will be oakum (traditionally - less common now) or some other substance (the blue foamy stuff is particularly entertaining) packed between the pad and the shoe.
Studs are used for added traction. The shoes must have holes tapped into them and then a variety of studs are available to screw in based on footing. Generally pointed studs for hard footing and rounded for muddy.
Road studs - are small (usually square) and used for hard surfaces (including firm dry grass footing)
Bullets - are used for ground that is reasonably firm but has loose footing on top.
Blocks - these tend to be quite substantial and are used for deep muddy footing.
Others - as with everything in riding there are many "specialty" items for everything you can imagine.
Studs can do serious damage if incorrectly used. Remember these basics:
Read more...
However, horses with movement related issues may need therapeutic shoes. Changes to the shoe (ie weight, shape, angle, etc) can make a critical difference to how the foot breaks over (by adding a roll), it's flight pattern, and how it lands. Here are some of the more interesting shoes that can be used for corrective purposes:
1. Trailer Shoe - this has one heel extended; used to help a foot that naturally twists land straight.
2. Square Toe - these are sometimes used on hind feet to limit forging and over-reaching (see Movement)
3 and 7 Rolled Toe - used for horses that stumble or trip often as it aids in the breakover phrase of the stride (see Movement). Aka Rocker toe.
4. Bar Shoe - therapeutic shoe used to remove or apply pressure to different parts of the foot.
5. Heart Bar Shoe - particular bar shoe often used for horses with laminitis (more on this another Thursday!).
6. Egg Bar Shoe - another standard therapeutic shoe, often used for horses with navicular (more on this another Thursday!)
Other Shoe-Related Items:
Pads - these are often added between the foot and the shoe. Can provide protection to the sole (esp if your horse has super-sensitive feet), help reduce concussion, and help treat some issues. There will be oakum (traditionally - less common now) or some other substance (the blue foamy stuff is particularly entertaining) packed between the pad and the shoe.
- Pads are leather (traditionally) or synthetic (more often). Regular ones are of an even thickness and cover the whole hoof.
- Cut-out pads (aka rim pads) have a hole cut-out of the middle, so they go around the rim of the hoof. We're back to the creative naming system. These cover the heels and the edge of the foot, but some of the frog and the sole are still exposed. These are used to help adjust the angle of the hoof.
- Wedge pads (aka degree pads) raise the heels. They are used to change the angle of the hoof while providing the same protection as regular pads. Used for horses with iffy confirmation (ie low heels). They are also often used for horses with navicular.
Studs are used for added traction. The shoes must have holes tapped into them and then a variety of studs are available to screw in based on footing. Generally pointed studs for hard footing and rounded for muddy.
Road studs - are small (usually square) and used for hard surfaces (including firm dry grass footing)
Bullets - are used for ground that is reasonably firm but has loose footing on top.
Blocks - these tend to be quite substantial and are used for deep muddy footing.Others - as with everything in riding there are many "specialty" items for everything you can imagine.
Studs can do serious damage if incorrectly used. Remember these basics:
- Always use studs in pairs
- Use the smallest studs possible for the footing.
- Remove the studs as soon as you're done riding.
- Never turn a horse out with studs (could injure himself or another horse).
- Put protective boots on your horse when she's wearing studs
- Never trailer a horse with studs in
Read more...
Intermediate Shoeing
The farrier is the person who shoes your horse (as opposed to a blacksmith who works with metal in general -- and in older times often shoed horses as well). He'll use several tools in this process:
1. Rasp - used for, well, rasping. Think of it as a horse-sized nail-file.
2. Clinch cutter - I'd say the use is fairly self-explanitory. At least if you know that the clinches are the part of the nail that pokes out (and is folded over) at the top of the hoof.
3. Pritchel - This is a scary looking metal spike that the farrier uses to hold the hot shoe. Also used in forging to create the nail holes in the shoes.
4. Toe Knife - once-upon-a-time used for trimming the hoof; now rarely seen as preference seems to be for the specialized tools of the drawing knife and the hoof trimmer.
5. Drawing Knife - used to trim the frog or pare away excess sole. This knife is easily recognizable because it has a hook on it.
6. awww comeon, you don't really need me to tell you what this is do you? What's it look like? Yes, it's a Hammer.
7. Shoe Puller -- used for... yup, pulling shoes. Also sometimes called Pincers
8. Hoof Trimmer -- yet another inventive name. Also sometimes called Nippers
9. Clincher -- for closing the part of the nail that sticks out, thereby making the clinches.
Now that you know what tools your farrier will be using, how about what he's going to do?
1. Remove the old shoe. This has a few steps in itself:
2. Evaluate the hoof (the farrier will check wear patterns, balance, shape and symmetry).
3. Trim the hoof.
4. Select a shoe and reshape it to fit the hoof (it's important that the shoe be fit to the hoof not the hoof to the shoe!)
5. Nail on shoe. Amazing how the simplest instructions arguably requires the most skill.
6. Set and file clinches.
7. Farrier may choose to apply hoof sealer or fill in old nail holes.
And then once that's done, how do you know if your farrier has done a good job?
Read more...
1. Rasp - used for, well, rasping. Think of it as a horse-sized nail-file.
2. Clinch cutter - I'd say the use is fairly self-explanitory. At least if you know that the clinches are the part of the nail that pokes out (and is folded over) at the top of the hoof.
3. Pritchel - This is a scary looking metal spike that the farrier uses to hold the hot shoe. Also used in forging to create the nail holes in the shoes.
4. Toe Knife - once-upon-a-time used for trimming the hoof; now rarely seen as preference seems to be for the specialized tools of the drawing knife and the hoof trimmer.
5. Drawing Knife - used to trim the frog or pare away excess sole. This knife is easily recognizable because it has a hook on it.
6. awww comeon, you don't really need me to tell you what this is do you? What's it look like? Yes, it's a Hammer.
7. Shoe Puller -- used for... yup, pulling shoes. Also sometimes called Pincers
8. Hoof Trimmer -- yet another inventive name. Also sometimes called Nippers
9. Clincher -- for closing the part of the nail that sticks out, thereby making the clinches.
Now that you know what tools your farrier will be using, how about what he's going to do?
1. Remove the old shoe. This has a few steps in itself:
- Open the clinches
- Either extract nails or use shoe-pullers to pull shoe (always pull toward the frog; both heels, then toe, repeat till off)
- Remove any remaining nails
2. Evaluate the hoof (the farrier will check wear patterns, balance, shape and symmetry).
3. Trim the hoof.
4. Select a shoe and reshape it to fit the hoof (it's important that the shoe be fit to the hoof not the hoof to the shoe!)
5. Nail on shoe. Amazing how the simplest instructions arguably requires the most skill.
6. Set and file clinches.
7. Farrier may choose to apply hoof sealer or fill in old nail holes.
And then once that's done, how do you know if your farrier has done a good job?
- the shoe should fit the hoof (shoe reaches heels - or possibly past if necessary)
- the shoe is held on by six to eight nails
- the toe and heel of each pair of feet should match (ie one front foot should look like the other)
- the bulbs of the heels should be even
clenches should be even; they will usually be about cm from the bottom of the foot - when moving the feet should land evenly
- angle of the hoof matches the angle of the pastern
- **the frog should touch the ground - this one gets a couple stars because depending which paper you read or which farrier and/or vet you talk to, you'll get a different answer. All agree it should touch the ground when the horse is moving, but there's debate over whether it should be in contact when standing still. Reasonable in-between seems to be yes if on soft ground but not necessarily if on hard ground.
Read more...
Beginner Shoeing
My horse gets new shoes considerably more often than I do. Why? Because she wears them out. But horses in the wild don't have shoes, why does yours need them? Well, there's a couple reasons for that. Horses hooves continually grow -- much like your finger nails; in the wild, they wear out at about the same rate as they grow while the horse wanders around grazing. In a domestic environment though, a horse who's ridden is required to carry more than their natural weight (tack and rider!), and work on non-hoof-friendly surfaces than they would in the wild and so their hooves get worn faster. The other issue is that in the wild evolution kicks in and over time, horses with stronger feet are going to survive. People, however, have focused breeding on other traits (such as speed) leaving some breeds with less than ideal hooves. We put shoes on to counteract this issue. Shoes also allow us to add studs for traction when necessary. Note that shoes are *not* necessary for all horses. Some, particularly sturdy ponies, can go barefoot their whole lives.
Ok short version. Why shoe?
If your horse needs shoes, you need to know about them! They'll need to be reset or replaced every 5-8 weeks. Resetting is when they take the shoes off, trim the hooves, and put the same shoes back on. You can usually do this once, sometimes twice, before new shoes are needed.
So how do you know when your horse needs the farrier?
And because I know how much you really want something to memorize... The parts of the shoe:
Not noted here but worth being aware of are clips. Clips stick up either one at the toe, or two - one on either side (think 10 and 2 position). These are called, not surprisingly, toe or quarter clips, and are used particularly for horses involved in high-impact sports, to stop the shoe from twisting or shifting.
Read more...
Ok short version. Why shoe?
- Protection: work on hard surfaces will wear the hoof faster than it can grow.
- Traction: shoes with corks can help prevent slipping, esp on slippery surfaces.
- Improving Movement: changing the weight, shape, balance of the shoe can significantly alter the horse's movement.
Soundness: horses with issues such as laminitis or navicular can be helped by special shoes.
If your horse needs shoes, you need to know about them! They'll need to be reset or replaced every 5-8 weeks. Resetting is when they take the shoes off, trim the hooves, and put the same shoes back on. You can usually do this once, sometimes twice, before new shoes are needed.
So how do you know when your horse needs the farrier?
- Regular appointment time - your horse should be on a regular schedule, usually once somewhere between 5 and 8 weeks.
- Missing, thin, bent or twisted shoe - particularly in the case of a bent or twisted shoe call the farrier right away as that can cause problems with their legs (by stressing tendons, ligaments, etc) and their feet (bruised sole).
- Shoe is loose - you'll hear a noticeable clicking sound when the horse walks and can wiggle or move the shoe.
- Toes are long - you can see this by looking; the toe seems to grow past the shoe. If they're really long the horse will start to trip as he travels.
- If the shoe rests on the soul of the foot.
And because I know how much you really want something to memorize... The parts of the shoe:
Not noted here but worth being aware of are clips. Clips stick up either one at the toe, or two - one on either side (think 10 and 2 position). These are called, not surprisingly, toe or quarter clips, and are used particularly for horses involved in high-impact sports, to stop the shoe from twisting or shifting.
Read more...
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